Our journey began at 3:45am, when we jumped in the car and started driving towards Oregon. The drive takes roughly 6h30mins from Vancouver, but it didn’t seem that long as me and my friend Sal have been super excited about surfing, specially after seeing the good waves forecast. When we got to Seaside, Oregon, we rented all the surf gear needed, ate some good Mexican food, and headed to the beach!
After we got to the beach and took a look at the waves, the waves were messy and all over the place, but a bit in the distance from the shore, the waves looked fairly decent. Without knowing the area, we have decided to swim thru the white wash to get past it to get to the good waves, and we have failed. After exhausting ourselves swimming, the white wash kept on pushing us back. Then we went to the beach for a lil water break and we talked to the locals about how to get out past the white wash. They have explained to us that the only way out is to use the rip current by the rocks. So armed with this new knowledge we jumped back into the water to give another attempt to reach the good waves!
Taking the Rip Current by the rocks is actually kinda scary, it reminds me of incident I had last year where I came very close to dying. Last year, for wanting to get bigger waves, I decided to jump in from the rocks to where the waves seemed good, not knowing that there was a very strong rip current there, it pulled me out into the area where big waves were crashing into the rocks. I wasn’t very lucky that day, because my leash got wrapped around deep around the rock underneath, and I was stuck in the area where big waves where hitting the rocks. Every time the wave came, I felt like I was in a washing machine being thrown from rock to rock, and it was just giving me a brief moment every-time to catch my breath in between waves and make an attempt at unstrapping my leash. I was stuck there for what felt like an eternity at that time, knowing that one of this waves I’m going to hit my head on the rock and die, or run out of oxygen, or break something on the rocks. Luckily I managed to get out, I was shacking after that experience, and my brand new board that I have bought was gone! After that day, I now respect the power of the ocean a lot more. And I get nervous when I’m by the rocks lol.
But this time nothing bad has happened, other than being a bit nervous being close to the rocks and trying to avoid the waves to push me back into the rocks, the rip current did it’s part and took me out to where the waves were good. That day the waves were up to 9 feet! It was my first time to ever ride a wave that was 9 feet tall, it was such a rush! When I caught my first wave, I picked up lots of speed, and the board started to skip water. At first the speed threw me off balance a bit, but I managed to stay on the board and ride the wave until it braked. I continued riding with the white wash, and it turned into another smaller wave! So that was like riding 2 waves in one go! The feeling was unbelievable, it was such a rush!
I caught a few more waves afterwards, but none of them were as good as the first one. After a few hours surfing, I decided that I was going catch one more wave and head to shore cause I was already exhausted. I caught the wave, but unfortunately I fell a few seconds after standing on my board. Then when the wave broke on me, the leash unstrapped from my leg and the board was swept away from me. Then I was stuck in the breakpoint area having those waves breaking on me over and over. I wasn’t having a good time then, I was pretty nervous about the board and being in the breakpoint wasn’t fun. It felt like forever to swim back to shore, plus I felt super exhausted. Luckily another surfer picked up my board by the shore, so it didn’t get tossed into the rocks or anything. After that I decided to call it a day. Both me and my friend were really exhausted.
After surfing, we were driving around trying to find a good spot to just relax and have a beer, and maybe find a place to go to at night. As I was driving, all of a sudden, a deer jumped in front of me out of nowhere, I slammed on my breaks and just before hitting it, I released the breaks and swerved around it. That was a really good wake up call, I’m glad that I havn’t hit the deer, that would of ruined our trip.
When night came, we were done… We had no more energy to go out. We put a few couching in the back of the car, parked right by the beach and slept there. I imagined it would be the most uncomfortable night to be cramped in the back of the car with your friend to sleep in. But to my surprise, it turned out to be one of the best sleeps! There was also a lil storm in the night, with lots of wind and rain, that made it feel so warm in fuzzy being in the blankets lol.
The next day we went to a different beach to surf (Short Sand Beach). The beach is a very beautiful place, but the waves that day were much worse, havn’t enjoyed them as much as I did the previous day. After we were done, we had one last lunch at the Mexican place, and drove back to Vancouver.
Overall it was a very fun 2 day trip to Oregon!